Postcards from Armenia - #1 – April 26th, 2004

(Yes, this is a bit of catch up)

It is late afternoon at the offices of http://www.projectharmony.am and people are slowly filtering out. I'm putting finishing touches on materials for a four-day training that starts tomorrow. Tonight a few of us are going out to dinner, and then I'm working to finish preparations for tomorrow. Lots to do.

Since my arrival at 12:15 am on Saturday morning (and a 5-6 hour sleep) I have gone with two other Project Harmony exchange groups (2 law enforcement guys from New England and a group of 20 high school students - 10 from Florida and 10 from Armenia) to the Genocide Memorial to mark the anniversary of the Turkish genocide of the Armenian people (more on this in a bit), strolling around the central area, out to a free concert at the Opera House (requiem mass), to the "Vernisage" (outdoor market) to do a little souvenir shopping and to the Ballet. I have been drenched to the skin in a couple of downpours as well!

The walk to and through the Genocide Memorial was quite moving. We joined thousands of other Armenians, many in family groups with 3-4 generations as they hiked up the hill to the site, flowers in hand. Red tulips, lilies, gerberas, bright spots in a sea of folks dressed mostly in black or gray (not just this day -- this is pretty typical here).

The walkway up the hill was lined with police, as there have been anti government demonstrations here this month. Near the long promenade leading up to the memorial itself we were stopped and let through in groups. The promenade is bordered on one side by a long wall with the names of the villages that disappeared during the genocide. Many people stopped to place flowers by their families' village.


Somber choral music blared out of tinny speakers and the chatter subsided. The memorial is a large circle surrounded by stone pillars leaning in towards the center, encircling an eternal flame. The main part is flanked by a large two-part sculpture piercing the sky, representing separated Armenia.


We placed our flowers around the flame on the growing wall of flowers, and then exited on the opposite side. The teenagers seemed relieved to be out the other side. Of the Floridian kids, there are four African Americans, an unusual site in Armenia. As they have been since their arrival, they were swamped by people wanting to have pictures taken with them, touched, even kissed! Before we started down the hill they had been interviewed by three TV news crews.

At the bottom of the hill we split with the other groups. I had lunch with some of the wonderful PH staff and a gentle stroll. We finished with tea at an outdoor, and thankfully undercover, cafe, where we waited out an amazing rain/hail storm.


So some of you may not know what I am doing in Armenia for two weeks. I have the honor of working with 19 people of Project Harmony for a second time. Last year we began an adventure together to introduce the practice and application of online interaction to address community issues and needs. Participants in the online events went to their local school based Internet center as this is still a fairly unwired country.

The team I worked with did miracles. Before we ever starty, everyone said no one would participate in an online event and an online event would not make a difference in the communities. This group proved them wrong on all counts.

This year, with 12 months and many events under their belts, the team is shifting their attention to bringing in new leaders and organizers of online events to build sustainability and expand the work. This is where we'll see if we can reach a tipping point where communities start acting on their own without the intense leadership and support of paid PH staff. It is a big chasm. We start the leap tomorrow.

Some of the online gang!

The daily, quotidian stuff:
The weather when I got here was tumultuous variations of rain, hail and sunshine. Today however mother nature allowed a kiss of spring - blue sky, high 60's F. I even got to see Mount Arrarat as Siobhan and I walked to the office (1 hour) and got our exercise. Had fresh bread and this curd-like cheese for breakfast, along with tea. Mm. Sort of like fresh ricotta. We sprinkled it with sugar.

Spent the day at the office in meetings, preparations for tomorrow and a quick hop to the meeting venue for room set up.

On Sunday we head north to the Tavush/Lori region. We'll do some sightseeing on the way, have a meeting on Monday, then do some sightseeing on the return on Tuesday. Working in the office wed- Friday.

Oh, I forgot to tell you we went to the Ballet last night in the newly renovated Opera House (there has been a lot of renovation/building since I was here last). Amazing sets, costumes, full orchestra and large corps de ballet! I was only sorry I was so sleepy! Packed house, appreciative audience. I seem to have misplaced the pictures. Later!


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